
If you are looking for a wonderful getaway for vacation R&R during the holidays, consider Taiwan. Everyone traveling to Asia should consider putting Taiwan on their travel itinerary.
From Japan, the convenience and moderate air travel costs are notable. We flew from Tokyo to Taipei recently at a cost round trip per person of around $500. Against the headwinds the flight takes 3 1/2 hours to Taiwan from Tokyo, and 2 1/2 hours on the return leg.
On both departure and arrival, the distances to and from the airports are short and convenient. From Shinagawa station in Tokyo a direct train runs to Haneda International airport in about 10 minutes. From Taipei Songshan Airport in Taipei to our downtown hotel, the taxi fare was about $3. Yes, taxi fares are inexpensive and drivers are courteous, as are Taiwanese people in general.
Among the many things to do in Taipei, include a visit to the Taipei World Financial Center (101 Building), the 2nd tallest in the world at 509.2 meters.
And of course there is the fantastic Taiwanese dining ranging from classic Chinese dishes like Peking Duck in plush 5-star hotels to a seemingly infinite variety of low-priced, delicious foods served in food stalls and carts or clean, unpretentious restaurants all around town.
A must-see are the night markets, the largest and oldest Shi-lin, with a carnival-like atmosphere. Here, or in other Taipei night markets, you can savor delicious food delicacies like squid stew and oyster omelets, chou dofu (fermented tofu), dumplings of all kinds, Taiwanese sausage, or dou hua, a sweet desert served with almonds, peanuts, red beans or other toppings.
Nearby Taipei, refresh in a soothing hot-spring bath in the Tatun Mountain Range, as at Yangmingshan Hot Spring, in its mild alkaline sulfuric waters.

Or visit Jiufen (Jioufen or Chiufen) Village on the Northeast Coast, once a gold mining center in Taiwan. Several movies were shot here among the closely-packed houses clinging to the steep mountainside, including Hóu Xiàoxián’s A City of Sadness, which won first price in the Venice Film Festival. Sip tea in one of the tea houses of the village’s golden past, including Jioufen Tea House (No. 142, Jioufen Old Street, owned by an artist), savor a yam dish, and take in the gorgeous view of Keelung outer sea.
The crown jewel of Taipei is the National Palace Museum, which ranks among the world’s most magnificent museums, and is unquestionably no. 1 for Chinese antiquities (bronzes, jades, ceramics, rare books and documents, calligraphy, painting). Hats off to Chiang Kai-shek for moving this priceless cultural heritage from mainland China to Taiwan in 1949, to escape being ravaged and destroyed by the Maoist Red Guard.
The museum alone is worth a trip to Taiwan, ensconcing more than 650,000 court treasures from the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. Approximately 15000 of these treasures are on display at any one time in the museum building, open every day of the year from 8:30 to 18:30.
Aside from a permanent collection, the rest of the pieces displayed are rotated three four times a year. Arrive early to beat the crowds, especially on the 3rd floor (room 302) to view the exquisite Jadeite Cabbage, shown here:

This masterful piece is said to have been part of the dowry of Consort Chin in the late Qing dynasty . The cabbage is a metaphor for purity, and symbolizes the purity of the bride. Large and small grasshoppers are camouflaged in the cabbage leaves. The grasshopper, known for its ability to reproduce, symbolizes fertility, a blessing for the bride to have many children.
We went every day to the National Palace Museum when in Taipei on this trip, and will return.
Its splendors are unforgettable, a few of which are shown here:

The art of painted enameling dates back to the ancient Egyptians and was popular in many cultures in the West. In this vase of coiled dragons and peonies decoration, yellow, the choice of emperors during the Qing (and Ming) dynasty, is the base color. The peony symbolized the good things of life and was declared the national flower of China in 1903. The clawed dragon represented the emperor and appeared on national flags during the Qing dynasty.

This porcelain treasure in doucai polychrome bears the Tian symbol for heaven.

This porcelain headrest (pillow) is in the shape of a recumbent child.

This Cloisonné enameled box is composed of filigree work on a copper body. Cloisonné was extremely popular in the Ming dynasty, and was known as “Ching-t’ai Blue” ware.

In this olive kernel, a carving by Chen Zuzhang, inside the boat are the poet Su Dongpo, two other guests, three boatmen, and the helmsman. You have to use a magnifying glass to see them.

This painted enamel bowl is one of two in the National Palace Museum with willows and swallows decoration.

The underglaze blue on this flask with leaf scrolls decoration is magnificent.

Single-handled cup and saucer, Porcelain, Jingdezhen ware
Cappuccino?

Lotus-shaped porcelain warming bowl, light bluish-green underglaze, from the Northern Song dynasty

This Mandala art form is a Tibetian tribute presented by the fifth Dalai Lama in 1653.

This bronze measure, 25.6 cm x 34cm, was crafted in the Xin dynasty (9-24).

Lei wine vessel with sheep-head high reliefs and knob pattern

This sandalwood square treasure box, 25.2 cms x 25.4 cms, contains 32 curios.

Bronze, late Shang dynasty (1300-1046 BC)


Bronze, Late western Zhou dynasty (827-782 BC)

Porcelain, Yue Ware

Jade, late Liangzhu culture (2500-2200 BC)

Bamboo attributed to Zhu Sansong, Ming dynasty

Porcelain, gold tracery on blue glaze, Qianlong reign (1736-1795), Qing dynasty

Bronze, late Western Zhou dynasty (853-842 BC)

Qianlong reign, Qing dynasty, gold, cloisonné and painted enamels

Duan stone, Su Shi’s poem inscribed

Jade, Eastern Han dynasty (25-220)

Bronze, late Shang to early Zhou dynasty

Porcelain, Guan ware, light bluish-green glaze

Bronze, Late Shang to early Zhou dynasty

Lacquer, carved red ware, Yongle reign (1403-1424), Ming dynasty

Bronze Mid-western Zhou dynasty (c. 976-878 BC)

Lacquer, carved polychrome ware, Jiajing reign (1522-1566), Ming dynasty

Jade, Southern Song to Ming dynasty (12th-14th c.)

Porcelain, underglaze blue, Hongwu reign (1368-1398), Ming dynasty

Porcelain, underglaze blue, Zhengde reign (1506-1521) Ming dynasty

Porcelain, Wanli reign (1573-1620), Ming dynasty

Porcelain, Jun ware, lilac purple glaze

Porcelain, ruby red glaze, Xuande reign (1426-1425), Ming dynasty

Chün ware, Chin to Yüan dynasty (1115-1368)
All the best,
Warren J. Devalier
©2011 Warren J. Devalier